Iguazu Falls: Both Sides

The Basics

We flew from Rio’s international airport into Aeroporto Internacional de Foz do Iguaçu. We went with LATAM airlines, and got discount tickets for $50 USD each way. These tickets did not include checked bags, so I recommend double checking with the airline you fly with.

From the airport, we took a taxi straight across the border to the Argentina side of the falls, called Puerto Iguazu. Our driver pulled up to the border control and waited while we got our passports stamped. He filled out a bit of paperwork and we passed through the crossing with ease. He brought us directly to our hotel, Jardin de Iguazu, for 120 R.

We took a bus back to Brazil, which ended up deserting us on the border with vague instructions to pass through customs and wait for the next bus. We didn’t want to wait for the next bus (we believed it would be an hour), so we hopped in a taxi and went directly to our hostel, Concept Design. If you plan to cross the border by bus, I recommend double checking how the process works.

Get Your Adventure On

We decided to spend 3 nights total at the falls, with 2 nights in Argentina and 1 in Brazil. We arrived in Argentina midday and headed to the park around 3:00. We stayed a block from the bus station which takes you to the park entrance. The bus prices were higher than we had seen online (130A per person each way, 260A round trip). The ride takes about 40 minutes in a nice air conditioned bus.

Iguazú Falls Argentina: Entrance prices were higher than we saw online, so be sure to check the official website for updated information. The park was open from 8am-6pm, with buses running before opening and after closing time. Inside you can find food stalls, bathrooms, and potable water filling stations at various points around the park. I was glad I brought 2 bottles to keep filled so I could stay hydrated on the trails.

Devil’s Throat/Garganta del Diablo: An unforgettable experience that brings you in the heart of the action where the biggest falls meet and descend. Although we arrived before 10am and it didn’t seem too crowded, the trains to and from this trail hold a limited capacity. Getting to and from, we were put on a train an hour from the time we were at the station, which meant waiting around the limited food stalls seeking space next to the hard-working air conditioner. The train takes about 30 minutes. Once we arrived, the walk to the viewpoint and back took us 75 minutes or so. We took our time taking photos and enjoying the view.

Lower Circuit: This loop was our favorite, as it included plenty of widespread views of the falls from various angles. Despite the inconsistent signage that estimated 90-120 minutes walking, it took us around 50 including several long stops in the shade for respite from the heat. There are stairs on this path.

Upper Circuit: This walk will take you up close to the edge of the falls. One of the views was gorgeous, the others were simply too close to take in the view. If we had limited time, I would have skipped this one. Including stops, it took us under an hour.

Cataratas do Iguaçu, Brasil: We caught a bus from the main road to the park entrance. It was packed with locals, but we managed to squeeze in. The park is the last stop, so it’s hard to miss.

Eats & Drinks

(Puerto Iguazú, Argentina) Misiones Casa de Empanadas: Best meal we had in town was this simple joint that felt like home. Our favorites were carne/beef, maiz/corn, and carne con aceitunas y heuvos/beef with olives and eggs.

What Next?

We got everything I wanted out of our experience to the falls. If I came back, I would perhaps pay the extra money for a boat trip below (whole body soaked by waterfall!), or stay in one of the resorts overlooking the falls (because #honeymoonlifestyle).

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